The Convair Shuttle B - 'Aquila' HL -LAUNCHED!

[Weaver]

Now that's REALLY weird! And it's almost the same shape as mine, but quite a bit larger. 

I like it. The shape implies that it carries some fuel for its main engines down either side of the payload bay, and the fact that all three mains are in a line rather than a triangle means that their collective thrust line is nearer to the centre of mass, which is appropriate for a tandem, rather than piggyback, first stage. Still think the latter is too small though (just like the old model kit) and it'd need SRBs or (preferably) liquid-fuel boosters to get it into orbit.

[PR19_Kit]

Oh sure, two stages to orbit would have been a tad optimistic. That's why I added the PBS and the SRBs.

[zenrat]

...I've tried marling the sealing rings with a black Sharpie, but the pen seems to run out of steam after only drawing 1-2 rings and then just stops, despite still being able to write on paper. Very odd.

I'll get some different maker's pens and see how they work.

Yep, that happens.  I once had the brilliant idea that I could paint a model car white and then graffiti the body with felt tip pens.  Didn't work for the reason you give.  I think it's something in the paint clogging the tip.  I haven't tried it but have thought that lightly cleaning the tip on fine wet'n'dry might clear it.
When I use permanent markers to draw on black window rubbers on 1/25 model cars I don't get this issue.  Could be the pens, could be the fact i'm drawing onto clear and not paint.

[Old Wombat]

Not a perfect solution (because nothing ever is) paint pens may be a better choice than markers.

AK do them, I think one of the other major(ish) brands does, & there are probably generic, non-modelling, versions available, too.

[NARSES2]

Not a perfect solution (because nothing ever is) paint pens may be a better choice than markers.

AK do them, I think one of the other major(ish) brands does, & there are probably generic, non-modelling, versions available, too.

I've heard a lot of praise for the AK ones 

Didn't someone on this site buy the complete range at Telford last year ?

[Weaver]

Always bear in mind that there are two kinds of "felt tip pen", differentiated by their "ink":

1. "Pigment Markers" are the ones you want. The "ink" is essentially paint dissolved in a volatile solvent. You draw it on, the solvent evaporates, and the paint is deposited on the top of the surface, just like you'd put it on with a hairy stick.

2. "Aniline Dyes" or "Dye Markers" are what you DO NOT want. The "ink" is a dye that works by soaking into the surface and changing it's colour all the way through. The trouble is that it's formulated to work on a uniformly absorbent surface, like paper, not an absorbant layer over a repelling substrate like painted plastic. If you draw a black line on white painted plastic with an aniline dye marker tonight, then by tomorrow morning you'll have a black line with a lovely purple "glow" either side of it where the dye has absorbed sideways into the paint layer.

If the problem is that the felt tip marker is "skidding" on the paint, not depositing ink and therefore not drawing more into the tip by capilliary action, then perhaps it might help if the paint was matt or had a matt varnish coat over it? A matt fiish provides a bit more friction than a gloss or satin one.

[frank2056]

I've heard a lot of praise for the AK ones 

Didn't someone on this site buy the complete range at Telford last year ?

I wasn't at Telford... but I bought both complete sets recently, to get past the tax/"tariffs" They really are good. They're paint, not dyes.

[PR19_Kit]

I got my set from Amazon today, and they worked pretty well. I'm not sure what sort of paint they have in them but it works OK on the SRBs, most of the time.

I have to be VERY careful not to slide the pen off the clamp ridge and touch down on the SRB's skin, and I manage not to it's perfect to make the correct markings. I'll either have to re-paint over some of the 'splashes' or sand them off or something.

But mostly they look OK on the single SRB that I've done so far. It's tiring work as I have to be SO precise, but it's getting there.

[Martin H]

Not a perfect solution (because nothing ever is) paint pens may be a better choice than markers.

AK do them, I think one of the other major(ish) brands does, & there are probably generic, non-modelling, versions available, too.

I've heard a lot of praise for the AK ones 

Didn't someone on this site buy the complete range at Telford last year ?

That was me.. they are great. 

[zenrat]

Always bear in mind that there are two kinds of "felt tip pen", differentiated by their "ink":

1. "Pigment Markers" are the ones you want. The "ink" is essentially paint dissolved in a volatile solvent. You draw it on, the solvent evaporates, and the paint is deposited on the top of the surface, just like you'd put it on with a hairy stick.

2. "Aniline Dyes" or "Dye Markers" are what you DO NOT want. The "ink" is a dye that works by soaking into the surface and changing it's colour all the way through. The trouble is that it's formulated to work on a uniformly absorbent surface, like paper, not an absorbant layer over a repelling substrate like painted plastic. If you draw a black line on white painted plastic with an aniline dye marker tonight, then by tomorrow morning you'll have a black line with a lovely purple "glow" either side of it where the dye has absorbed sideways into the paint layer.

If the problem is that the felt tip marker is "skidding" on the paint, not depositing ink and therefore not drawing more into the tip by capilliary action, then perhaps it might help if the paint was matt or had a matt varnish coat over it? A matt fiish provides a bit more friction than a gloss or satin one.

When I tried to graffiti the car I was trying to draw on undercoat not on a gloss finish.  I figured that the satin finish would absorb the ink.
Thinking about it the best people to ask about what to use are those antisocial f**k-knuckles who like to write their names on bus-stops, signage, shop windows, doors...

[NARSES2]

Not a perfect solution (because nothing ever is) paint pens may be a better choice than markers.

AK do them, I think one of the other major(ish) brands does, & there are probably generic, non-modelling, versions available, too.

I've heard a lot of praise for the AK ones 

Didn't someone on this site buy the complete range at Telford last year ?

That was me.. they are great. 

I thought it was you Martin, but wasn't 100% 

[Weaver]

I got my set from Amazon today, and they worked pretty well. I'm not sure what sort of paint they have in them but it works OK on the SRBs, most of the time.

I have to be VERY careful not to slide the pen off the clamp ridge and touch down on the SRB's skin, and I manage not to it's perfect to make the correct markings. I'll either have to re-paint over some of the 'splashes' or sand them off or something.

But mostly they look OK on the single SRB that I've done so far. It's tiring work as I have to be SO precise, but it's getting there.

I'd be amazed if AK paint markers aren't "proper" paint, not dyes...

[Old Wombat]

I got my set from Amazon today, and they worked pretty well. I'm not sure what sort of paint they have in them but it works OK on the SRBs, most of the time.

I have to be VERY careful not to slide the pen off the clamp ridge and touch down on the SRB's skin, and I manage not to it's perfect to make the correct markings. I'll either have to re-paint over some of the 'splashes' or sand them off or something.

But mostly they look OK on the single SRB that I've done so far. It's tiring work as I have to be SO precise, but it's getting there.

I'd be amazed if AK paint markers aren't "proper" paint, not dyes...

States on the pen body "ACRYLIC PAINT MARKER FOR MODELING (sic). FAST DRY, WATERPROOF."

Goes on to say that it can be used on plastic, resin, metal & wood; that it's water & heat resistant; can be layered like other paints; doesn't blur; & can be weathered over.

Also says "Apply on primed surfaces."

[kerick]

Always bear in mind that there are two kinds of "felt tip pen", differentiated by their "ink":

1. "Pigment Markers" are the ones you want. The "ink" is essentially paint dissolved in a volatile solvent. You draw it on, the solvent evaporates, and the paint is deposited on the top of the surface, just like you'd put it on with a hairy stick.

2. "Aniline Dyes" or "Dye Markers" are what you DO NOT want. The "ink" is a dye that works by soaking into the surface and changing it's colour all the way through. The trouble is that it's formulated to work on a uniformly absorbent surface, like paper, not an absorbant layer over a repelling substrate like painted plastic. If you draw a black line on white painted plastic with an aniline dye marker tonight, then by tomorrow morning you'll have a black line with a lovely purple "glow" either side of it where the dye has absorbed sideways into the paint layer.

If the problem is that the felt tip marker is "skidding" on the paint, not depositing ink and therefore not drawing more into the tip by capilliary action, then perhaps it might help if the paint was matt or had a matt varnish coat over it? A matt fiish provides a bit more friction than a gloss or satin one.

When I tried to graffiti the car I was trying to draw on undercoat not on a gloss finish.  I figured that the satin finish would absorb the ink.
Thinking about it the best people to ask about what to use are those antisocial f**k-knuckles who like to write their names on bus-stops, signage, shop windows, doors...

Isn't it great how so much culture is world wide these days!
You can't get away from the idiots no matter where you go!

[zenrat]

Always bear in mind that there are two kinds of "felt tip pen", differentiated by their "ink":

1. "Pigment Markers" are the ones you want. The "ink" is essentially paint dissolved in a volatile solvent. You draw it on, the solvent evaporates, and the paint is deposited on the top of the surface, just like you'd put it on with a hairy stick.

2. "Aniline Dyes" or "Dye Markers" are what you DO NOT want. The "ink" is a dye that works by soaking into the surface and changing it's colour all the way through. The trouble is that it's formulated to work on a uniformly absorbent surface, like paper, not an absorbant layer over a repelling substrate like painted plastic. If you draw a black line on white painted plastic with an aniline dye marker tonight, then by tomorrow morning you'll have a black line with a lovely purple "glow" either side of it where the dye has absorbed sideways into the paint layer.

If the problem is that the felt tip marker is "skidding" on the paint, not depositing ink and therefore not drawing more into the tip by capilliary action, then perhaps it might help if the paint was matt or had a matt varnish coat over it? A matt fiish provides a bit more friction than a gloss or satin one.

When I tried to graffiti the car I was trying to draw on undercoat not on a gloss finish.  I figured that the satin finish would absorb the ink.
Thinking about it the best people to ask about what to use are those antisocial f**k-knuckles who like to write their names on bus-stops, signage, shop windows, doors...

Isn't it great how so much culture is world wide these days!
You can't get away from the idiots no matter where you go!

Moron see, moron do mate.