Yet another RW car build!

[PR19_Kit]

Got the interior all painted up, carpeted (!) and assembled. Just missing the 'Mustang' badge from the steering wheel centre, mainly because I can't find the decal sheet.  But I did scan it before the build started. 

Note the added seat belt assemblies, I'm getting to be a dab hand at doing them by now. 

[Rick Lowe]

The belts help dress things up nicely.

The build is coming along really well. 

[PR19_Kit]

The belts help dress things up nicely.

The build is coming along really well. 

They do indeed, but hardly any manufacturers mould the belts into the model, very odd. Revell mould the swivels into the top of the B posts but that's all.

And thanks, I'm getting pleased with it now the parts are coming together.

[Rick Lowe]

Yeah, even if they took a leaf out of Airfix's book and gave you a small section of 5 thou and let you cut your own, with pe hardware.

[zenrat]

Very few mass produced 1/24 or 1/25 car kits bother with any interior detail above dash level apart from rear view mirrors, the occasional crudely moulded sun visors and every so often an interior light dome.
Some do though.  AMT did a '41 Ford Woody with separate interior sidewalls and roofliner.  Needless to say these are a complete female canine to fit with the "glass" sandwiched between them and the body.

[sykotik]

great work on the interior! Those belts do look rather good
For paint remover,Tamiya Lacquer thinner works well and so does Testors ELO (if you can find any that is). The only draw back to ELO is it also dissolves glue but as it's a body, it should be fine

[PR19_Kit]

Got some front end work done tonight, the engine and front suspension are in place now. While the engine slots in nicely, the  front crossmember, steering rack, springs and anti-roll bar are designed by a sadist! 

It's actually impossible to fit the anti-roll bar the way it's drawn in the instructions, and it may be impossible any other way too. If so I'll make one from brass wire and glue it in place.

The engine's got a fair amount of detail piping and wiring to add now that it's in place, and hopefully the rear suspension will go in after I've painted and fitted the exhaust system in the next few days.

[Old Wombat]

 

[PR19_Kit]

I'm ploughing through all the fine detail stuff on the 'Stang, and the rear suspension is now all in place, but the bits don't fit too well. In fact the Panhard rod doesn't fit at all as it's moulded and needed some serious 'cutting and shutting' before I could get it even vaguely in the correct place.

I've started on the engine plumbing and wiring, and that takes ages waiting for the glue to dry, but I'm getting there.

I thought I'd fit the windows now, as the main body shell is done, only to find that all the glass parts have a black outline. Checking with daughter #2 it seems it's painted on the INSIDE! 

So I had to mask off the whole lot, and the rear window masking job is shown below, and it was the first time I used that bendy tape that Tamiya make. I'm not too sure about it, it's NOTHING like their usual tape, but we'll see how it works when I strip it all off.

[NARSES2]

and it was the first time I used that bendy tape that Tamiya make. I'm not too sure about it, it's NOTHING like their usual tape, but we'll see how it works when I strip it all off.

Must admit my jury is still out on it. Be interested to hear your views.

[zenrat]

I use black texter (permanent marker) to do the black bits on modern windows.  No masking, I draw it on free hand - carefully.

[PR19_Kit]

Hmmmm, not so good.

I got some paint bleed under the bendy tape and I've had to clean it up with the 'cocktail stick and thinners' method. Perhaps I should have burnished it down harder?

In any case it all needs another coat as some of it is 'see-thru'.

I'm not sure I could do that freehand Fred, but I may have a go on one of the small quarter windows.

[zenrat]

Do some tests before hand as I am not 100% sure, but I think methylated spirits will remove premenant marker off the "glass" if it goes wrong.
Do the windows have frosted areas where the black goes?
Freehand texter is definitely better than freehand paintbrush.  I find chisel tip markers best.

I have some Tamiya bendy tape and I remain to be completely convinced by it having had some failures on textured/detailed surfaces.  It has it's place and should be OK on a smooth surface like a window but it does need to be burnished very well and being soft it is easy to deform the edge when doing so.

[PR19_Kit]

Yes, all four windows have a lightly frosted area to show what should be black.

[strobez]

I’ve been eyeing that Tamiya tape as well. Nice to see someone else try it out first!