Notes for anyone building one of these things.
(I'll keep updating this post as I find more stuff)
1. You need to glue the belly pan (B11) to the load bed (B6) BEFORE trying to fit the suspension units (A5 A9 A18 A19), because the front ones (A5) partly fit to the bottom of the cabin floor bulge (which is part of B6) whereas the rest of them fit to B11. Without the floor plate, you don't have a reference for trimming the A5s.
2. When cutting the transmission lines (B5 & B7) off the sprues, be careful not to cut away parts of the suspension hangers that have sprue gates on them, i.e. the dividing line between part and gate is not obvious. If you cut too much of the part away, then you don't have anything to fit the suspension units to.
3. Before fitting the suspension units you have to also file all their mating surfaces flat, cut the inboard end of the drive shaft off to get it to fit above the suspension hanger, and file the inboard end of the wishbone to a cylindrical shape to get it to mate with the suspension hanger.
4. Test-fit the inner wheels (A6) onto both the outer wheels (A8) and the relevant suspension unit BEFORE fitting the latter to the body. EVERYTHING needs sanding, filing and drilling to fit.
5. Leave the right hand side load bed panel (B1) off until AFTER you've fitted the exhaust pipe (A1) to the body. It's physically impossible to get the pipe in once the right-rear 'box pillar' (in which the silencer lives) is closed up. If you do close it up first, then your options are a) saw the pipe in half and fit the silercer from the top and the pipe from the bottom, or b) cut/drill the bottom of the box pillar out to make a bigger hole (not sure if this'll work, but it seems right).
6. The exhaust pipe as designed fouls the rear right hand wheel. I've fixed this by enlarging the hole in the load bed so that it can be tucked in more tightly and moved further back. Also, check reference photos for how it fits around the chassis shape. I'll post up a still from a YT video that shows this tomorrow.
7. The 'box pillars' at the rear corners of the load bed are formed from the load bed panels (B10 & B12), the tailgate (B9), the rear bulkhead (B8) and two inner wall pieces (B1 & B3). The corners are mitred, and they just don't fit. if you want a real-world accurate model, check a lot of references, do a lot of test-fitting, and trim accordingly. The 'lid' of the left hand pillar is formed integrally with B3, but it's awful: thick, misshapen and not even flat. Again, for an accurate model, I'd suggest cutting it off and making a new, separate lid. Since my model is dressed up for a TV show, I can, luckily, just cover all this with vis-mods.
(The design of the whole rear corner is just wrong IMHO. I'd have made the inside faces of the box pillar integral with B8, which would positively locate it at 90 deg to the base, then make the other three sides as separate L-section pieces instead of integral to the sides and rear. That way, the corner could be neat and you could leave the left-hand one off until the exhaust was installed.)
