What's Your Putty Of Choice?

[PR19_Kit]

Worth a try maybe, and if it doesn't work too well you could use it to fill cracks in walls. 

[NARSES2]

Though a lot of people rave about it I wasn't impressed with Perfect Plastic Putty at all.
Poor adhesion and a tendency to crumble if you even looked at it the wrong way led me to feeding the two tubes I bought to the bin monster.

Exactly my experience too, I could not get on with it.

It's really only meant for small gaps (wing/fuselage joins etc) which I find it very good for. I've not tried using it for anything major at all, stick to Humbrol for that (or whatever I can get at a show  )

[Beermonster58]

Though a lot of people rave about it I wasn't impressed with Perfect Plastic Putty at all.
Poor adhesion and a tendency to crumble if you even looked at it the wrong way led me to feeding the two tubes I bought to the bin monster.

Exactly my experience too, I could not get on with it.

It's really only meant for small gaps (wing/fuselage joins etc) which I find it very good for. I've not tried using it for anything major at all, stick to Humbrol for that (or whatever I can get at a show  )

It didn't even work for that. With virtually zero adhesion it literally fell out of the joints.

I stick to Revell Plasto  or Humbrol now. For a lot of gaps, where practical, I use lengths of plastic rod/strip. Gently sanded/trimmed flush it gives a very neat finish and, keeps use filler to a minimum

[jcf]

Perfect Plastic Putty does work for small gaps, seams and wing/tailplane attachment points etc.,
if applied over primer and smoothed with a dampened fingertip or Q-Tip/cotton bud. Using it to
build up over bare plastic and then trying to sand it really doesn't work as it's too soft and doesn't
contain the solvents that slightly melt the surface of the polystyrene promoting adhesion. It does
work as a filler/fairing compound on wood and after the application of a wood sealer and primer 
you can't tell it's there. Unlike the solvent containing glazing putties it doesn't shrink over time,
due to long term solvent evaporation and migration, so seams etc. don't reappear.

[Weaver]

I avoid using putty like the plague, because I'm not good at sculpting and a hate messy processes. I'd rather spend an hour sanding something to fit properly than 20 mins using putty on it.

Just me.

When I absolutely have to use putty, I use Squadron White.

[PR19_Kit]

Don't ever try and build a Testors/Italeri B-2 Spirit then.

It needs putty just to fill up the MASSIVE gaps between the too small lower bits and the too large upper parts. No amount of filing will sort that, bar maybe sawing a chunk out of the the entire upper half to shrink it down a bit. 

[Spey_Phantom]

i use Pattex all purpose filler, its easy to apply and excess can be washed away with a damp cloth or cottonswab 

[Rick Lowe]

Don't ever try and build a Testors/Italeri B-2 Spirit then.

It needs putty just to fill up the MASSIVE gaps between the too small lower bits and the too large upper parts. No amount of filing will sort that, bar maybe sawing a chunk out of the the entire upper half to shrink it down a bit. 

Evergreen strut stock? It'll weld to the kit parts, and is no harder or softer than the kit styrene, so just as easy to work.

[scooter]

Does "serious putty" count? 

[Steel Penguin]

Does "serious putty" count? 

i thought that was for gap creating ?  not filling 

[Old Wombat]

It's for the final putty session of a difficult build - if it doesn't work this time, there will be Fire! 

[scooter]

It's for the final putty session of a difficult build - if it doesn't work this time, there will be Fire! 

Kit is probably going to want some for his B-2 build

[PR19_Kit]

Kit is probably going to want some for his B-2 build

Too right!