Doing a good nmf without spraying

Started by Julhelm, July 19, 2008, 03:41:16 PM

Previous topic - Next topic


The thing is, I don't have access to an airbrush and if I need to spraypaint anything it'll have to be done outdoors. Yet I want to do an nmf, so what would be the best way to go about it?
On the bench:

Post-apocalyptic Beaufighter

John Howling Mouse

This is so far the easiest method I've found so far without using an airbrush.  Requires only 3 cans of Tamiya spray lacquer and some Tamiya masking tape.,18835.0.html

Essentially, I primered with Krylon sandable grey primer.   
Then I hit the whole airframe with Tamiya "Light GunMetal" spraycan (all the Tamiya paints I used were simply their fantastic spraycan lacquers).   
I lightened that up a bit with Tamiya "Silver Leaf" using very light, mist coats until I thought there would be just a tiny bit too much contrast with the "Silver Leaf" itself (purposely not too subtle).   
I masked many ad hoc panels using Tamiya tape, then sprayed with Tamiya Silver Leaf overall. 
Pulled the tape off and sprayed the entire airframe with Tamiya's new (to me) "Transparent Silver."  This was the part that was innovative and experimental (to me).  Because it is not an opaque spraypaint, the Transparent Silver allows a lot of tolerance with regard to how much you put on.  I'd say I ended up doing four coats of the Transparent Silver to get the contrast between light and dark silver panels believable while still remaining noticeable.

From one or two feet away, like when you're holding it in your own hand, I'd say it looks too "sparkly" (very manly word, eh?) because of the Transparent Silver.  But from as little as 4 or 5 feet away on its base, I'd swear I'm looking at a real aircraft in pristine condition.
Styrene in my blood and an impressive void in my cranium.


Tamiya paint is really good but a tad expensive.

I have used Walmart Aluminum paint with great results and only a $1 a can for 3 times the paint.  Know some of the British compadres use Halfords Auto paint with the same results.
Phil Peterson

Vote for the Whiffies


You're not going to get very realistic finish with a brush, so if spraying is right out, even with a can foil may be your best bet.

Ive never used it myself, but I've seen some stunning NMF models done with it (make sense really since it is NM).  I've also seen is done with good old fashioned kitchen foil, though again no firsthand experience here on that.  

If using cans is at all possible I'd try that.  Testor's Metallizer cans have always worked really well for me.  I've airbrushed Metalizer too with good reuslts but it's been a long time ago.  Now that I've switched to acrylic I dont use anything that needs a thinner other than water or alcohol.  

With Metalizer you can get a nice variation depending on how much buffing you do.  It works best on smooth styrene, but I've also primed individual panels with silver and gloss black before to get variations.

This was done entirely with Metalizer Aluminum Plate and Titanium cans.

So I got that going for me...which is nice....


Well I went down to the local autoshop to get some autoprimer, and I noticed that they had an entire shelf stocked with acrylic autopaint rattlecans, so I got myself one of those. Shall be interesting to try out.
On the bench:

Post-apocalyptic Beaufighter


Yep, a quick and easy NMF is a can of acrylic Aluminium car paint

Also, have you tried the Games Workshop/Citadel Miniatures metallic paints?  Best metallics I have ever come across for brush painting.  You can put them over bare plastic, one coat, with nary a worry or a brush mark, although I would still do a couple of coats over primer just to be safe.
Between almost-true and completely-crazy, there is a rainbow of nice shades - Tophe

Sales of Airfix kits plummeted in the 1980s, and GCSEs had to be made easier as a result - James May