Australien M3 Lee 1/35 Takom finished

[kerick]

That way lies madness!

These are quite doable, if you make a simple jig anyway:

You cannot view this attachment.

The main thing is that it needs to prevent the end connectors from falling away from the track blocks, so the side pieces must be just wide enough apart to fit the track between.

If you want madness, go build Model Kasten's Sherman tracks (I never have, and don't intend to) or Bronco's (which I tried, and gave up on).

Are those end connectors molded in one piece? If so I can see that would help a lot. I've heard of tracks that basically try to replicate the parts of a real track with seven or eight pieces per link. Now that would be insane!

BTW, do real Sherman tracks have rubber pads on the inside of the track as well as the outside? This one I'm building has chevron tracks and I'm assuming the chevron cleat is steel but I'm not sure about the rest. I'm about to start painting them.

[Jakko]

Are those end connectors molded in one piece? If so I can see that would help a lot. I've heard of tracks that basically try to replicate the parts of a real track with seven or eight pieces per link. Now that would be insane!

On MiniArt's tracks, as well as Gecko and RFM ones, the end connectors have two pins moulded on, pointing inward. There is a half-moon lug on each of the pins — you can just see it on the connectors in my photo. The blocks are in two halves, with a "flat" depression on the inside half (two of which you can also see in my photo) and a rounded depression on the outer half, so that if you're careful with the glue, the pins can pivot a little inside the blocks. This works quite well, and IMHO, after having built three or four sets, I'd say assembly isn't that bad.

Model Kasten's Sherman tracks have separate pins, inner and outer block halves and separate end connectors. You're supposed to glue the block halves together with two pins between them, but without getting glue on those pins, and then glue the connectors to the ends of the pins. No, thank you That's six parts already, and they sometimes also mould the chevron separately. I've never bought any of these sets, and doubt I ever will.

Bronco Sherman tracks have sets of two pins moulded together with part of the end connector on each side, and blocks in two halves as well. You need to glue the block halves together, trapping two sets of pins between them, and then glue on the guide tooth on both sides. I found it very difficult to get the sets of pins off the sprue without breaking one of the pins, and once I had a solution to that (cut through the sprue off on one side to relieve the pressure it exerts on the pins) I found it far too fiddly to assemble the links so they actually articulate, so I gave up on the one set I bought.

BTW, do real Sherman tracks have rubber pads on the inside of the track as well as the outside?

The blocks on VVSS Sherman tracks are either completely rubber or completely steel for most types. When you say "chevron", that doesn't help because there were several types T48 tracks had a big V-shaped chevron, and these were completely rubber. On the other hand, T54E1 tracks had an angular metal chevron, while T54E2 and T62 tracks had a more sine-wave–like chevron, and these were entirely steel inside and out. There were other types, but these four were the most common wartime chevron tracks.

The Sherman Minutia Website has a good overview of the different types of track, including modern photos of the blocks, which will help a lot.

[Captain Canada]

Nice looking kit for sure ! The jig is a great idea !

[The Chaos]

First track are finished.

[Captain Canada]

Looks great !

[buzzbomb]

Well done.. they are really only a persistence thing. A lot of repetition.
 

[Wardukw]

Nice work so far Chaos mate ,, i avoid building Sherman tracks as much as possible   

[Old Wombat]

[The Chaos]

The second track are finished.

[Rick Lowe]

Nice work so far Chaos mate ,, i avoid building Sherman tracks as much as possible   

I usually use the single-length tracks that come with the kits.
But then I'm a lazy, cheap modeller, as I've said before... 

[Wardukw]

Nice work so far Chaos mate ,, i avoid building Sherman tracks as much as possible   

I usually use the single-length tracks that come with the kits.
But then I'm a lazy, cheap modeller, as I've said before... 

Matey boy if the rubber band tracks are good like the ones from Tamiya or Tasca i will use em in a heartbeat ...Sherman tracks were always kept tight and you only really see track sag when the suspension was compressed anyway and it never stayed that way for long ...so trust me bud ,,lazy ain't the word to use ,...smart is 

[Jakko]

The second track are finished.

I see you cut the locating pins from the end connectors so you can lay the track flat. Quick tip: put one end connector on each end, rather than both at the same end, and only cut the semi-circular bit off the end. That leaves a pin on both ends of the track, so you can clip the ends together without needing to glue them.

[Rick Lowe]

Nice work so far Chaos mate ,, i avoid building Sherman tracks as much as possible   

I usually use the single-length tracks that come with the kits.
But then I'm a lazy, cheap modeller, as I've said before... 

Matey boy if the rubber band tracks are good like the ones from Tamiya or Tasca i will use em in a heartbeat ...Sherman tracks were always kept tight and you only really see track sag when the suspension was compressed anyway and it never stayed that way for long ...so trust me bud ,,lazy ain't the word to use ,...smart is 

As I've said before. 
Not that many people listen to me, though... 

[Jakko]

Sherman tracks were always kept tight and you only really see track sag when the suspension was compressed anyway and it never stayed that way for long

And when the tank didn't get enough maintenance, like in the Red Army.

I prefer workable tracks these days because of the way they sit around the wheels, even on a vehicle that has tight track like a Sherman. Many soft-plastic tracks will bend around the idlers and sprockets, rather than having definite angles between the blocks, and you can tell just by looking at them. This is especially a problem with long-pitch links like on a Churchill, where soft-plastic tracks really begin to look bad. Non-workable tracks would be less effort to put together for the same effect, but they get in my way when painting both the track and the rest of the vehicle, which is why I'll happily (more or less ) build workable ones instead if it means I can paint them separately before installation.

[Wardukw]

Sherman tracks were always kept tight and you only really see track sag when the suspension was compressed anyway and it never stayed that way for long

And when the tank didn't get enough maintenance, like in the Red Army.

I prefer workable tracks these days because of the way they sit around the wheels, even on a vehicle that has tight track like a Sherman. Many soft-plastic tracks will bend around the idlers and sprockets, rather than having definite angles between the blocks, and you can tell just by looking at them. This is especially a problem with long-pitch links like on a Churchill, where soft-plastic tracks really begin to look bad. Non-workable tracks would be less effort to put together for the same effect, but they get in my way when painting both the track and the rest of the vehicle, which is why I'll happily (more or less ) build workable ones instead if it means I can paint them separately before installation.

Jakko mate i couldn't agree more with ya ,, damn near every tank i've built in the last 15yrs have been workable tracks ,,it's not often for me at all to get tanks with rubber band tracks but there still out there for sure ,,Hobbyboss still produce tanks with em ,,but also individual links too.
When it comes to certain model tanks ,,ie,,freaking Shermans i'm all to happy to go with the rubber band option ,,i've made AM tracks for Shermans from damn near every maker of em trying to find a set which didn't drive you half insane building em ,,Friulmodel were pretty good but ya gotta be careful with the CA ,,Bronco sucked ,,AFV Club's are stiff and don't sit very well  yet their tracks for the M48/60 family are great ..i've built both types of tracks for the Sherman ,,HVSS and VSS ,,least the easy8's are wider and of a different design .
I've got a couple of old model boxes full of tracks being a mix of rubber band,,individual links and link and length....that reminds me i've got to hunt down a couple of sets of AM T-55 track sets ..i've got two Tamiya T-55's with their rubber tracks and thats a no go here  .
Oh i'll tell ya one track maker who makes 3D printed tracks and man they are fantastic ,,if i remember right their called Heavy Hobby ,,i always keep an eye out for them ,,i just wish more manufactures of AM tank tracks did more for the King Tiger which don't cost an arm and a leg and a goat sacrifice