Hataka

[NARSES2]

From my days as a silk screen printer a drop of washing up liquid mixed in with the paint usually sorted out any problems.
That goes for most paint either acrylic or enamel, takes a little bit longer to dry. This also works with mixing cement or concrete stops it from cracking due to frost.

Interesting

[Nick]

I'm running into some problems with my fave Hataka Blue Line paints recently....                                                                                                                                                         

Could the recent heat and humidity be the cause?
Or possibly you need a better hairy stick.

[PR19_Kit]

Could the recent heat and humidity be the cause?
Or possibly you need a better hairy stick.

Could be both Nick, although my current fave hairy stick has always worked well for me.

I've just given the particular bottle a REALLY good shake and after a while it started rattling! Maybe it has got a ball bearing in it and I just didn't shake it enough before? 

And it comes out a different colour too!! Brain fade time obviously!

[NARSES2]

Progress mate 

[Gondor]

Could the recent heat and humidity be the cause?
Or possibly you need a better hairy stick.

Could be both Nick, although my current fave hairy stick has always worked well for me.

I've just given the particular bottle a REALLY good shake and after a while it started rattling! Maybe it has got a ball bearing in it and I just didn't shake it enough before? 

And it comes out a different colour too!! Brain fade time obviously!

Yeah, some of them you need to shake untill they rattle, then you can roll!

[Rick Lowe]

Yeah, some of them you need to shake untill they rattle, then you can roll!

Argh... 

Sounds like the paint had settled and thickened enough at the bottom to trap the ball bearing.

[PR19_Kit]

I think you're right Rick.

After nearly fatiguing my shoulder joint shaking the pot, the Hataka Black Grey paint (RLM 66  I think) looks to be behaving itself, but by now the model has so many layers of paint on it that's more likely to be an Arado 480 than a 240! 

I seem to be  losing  my touch with  my painting recently, it's not going to plan at all, on any of my project models.

[Old Wombat]

These two bottles don't seem to have the ball bearing in them Chris, they just slosh a lot when I shake them.

Or the ball bearings are stuck in the paint at the bottom of the bottle - I've had that happen with AK & Vallejo paints (haven't used Hakata).

[zenrat]

If you haven't used a paint for a while it pays to have poke around with a stirrer to loosen everything up before shaking.

[PR19_Kit]

I've no idea how to get into the bottle with Hataka stuff, short of sawing off the nozzle.

[Gondor]

The nozzle is probably a separate parts that fits tightly in the section with the screw thread on it.

[zenrat]

I had assumed it unscrews like Vallejo paint.  But I only have a very limited number of Hataka paints so... 

[Thorvic]

If using those dropper bottles that have been stood for some weeks, try standing them upside down the night before you use them. Gravity should loosen the settled sediment, you still have to shake them to get the bead moving and mixing but it should give you a head start.

[PR19_Kit]

The whole thing's a disaster now anyway, see my Arado 240 thread.