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UV Epoxy resin, a cheap alternative to 2-component casting

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Nils:
i have started preperations for a new modeling experiment, since traditional resin casting is too complex for me, also i lack the finances and space for such as setup, i thought of starting experimenting with this new stuff called UV epoxy resin.

her's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/Resin-Ultraviolet-Decoration-Transparent-Activated/dp/B07FPR3RNQ

usually, resin casting uses 2 components, the resin and a hardner, but with UV resin, you only need one component and can be cast straight from the bottle, drying is with sun- or UV-light. it is normanny used to make custom jewelry, but i think i could use it to make new, or clone, modelparts.

i found a few of these online and could be bought quite cheaply. i found a pack of modeling clay in my stash, which im gonna use to make a mould. note that i have zero experiance in resin casting, so before the experiment goes down, is there anything i should look out for?

frank2056:
Nils - this looks similar (if not identical) to 3D printing resins, that cure with 405nm light. I'm not sure how well it will work in a deep mold, since the UV light has to reach every bit of resin to cure it. Otherwise, you'll end up with a cured surface and  a gooey mess below it.

The resins are not healthy in liquid form; you'll need to invest in latex (or similar) gloves and some goggles. They also tend to stick to everything and make a sticky mess. Invest in paper towels and plenty of alcohol (for cleanup) Isopropyl works well, but may be very difficult to obtain now. Denatured alcohol (Methylated spirits in the UK, possibly the same in Europe) works great, too.

If you soak the part in alcohol (to remove any uncured resin) you will eventually foul the liquid with uncured resin. Either shine a UV light on it or place it in the Sun to cure and precipitate the resin. The solids can be disposed of as solid waste.

Make sure you have a clean area for playing with the resins. I have a plastic tray under my printer to catch any accidental or catastrophic spills. I can't stress enough how messy and sticky uncured resin can be.

I used a UV nail curing station like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F1PD25R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
for a while, and it cured my prints in 2-3 minutes.

I also used this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072XJ55DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
solar powered turntable under the curing station - the UV was more than enough to power it.

The clear UV resins tend to yellow badly when they're fully cured. One way of mitigating this is to add a small amount of blue pigment for UV resins.

If you decide to experiment with other resins, there are water washable resins that work well. If there's a Makerspace or equivalent near you (there are several in Belgium), ask them if they have any resin printers and if so, if they can lend you a few ml of resin to experiment.

Weaver:
You can get tubs of wipes pre-soaked in Isopropyl alcohol - we use them at work.

Rick Lowe:

--- Quote from: Weaver on April 16, 2021, 05:51:11 pm ---You can get tubs of wipes pre-soaked in Isopropyl alcohol - we use them at work.

--- End quote ---

And they're sold in packets as cleaning cloths for spectacle lenses.

kerick:
Iím going to try this asap. Sounds like a great way to solve my Tornado Hindenburg tank problem. Iíll wait for a sunny day and just place it outside to cure. I wonder if placing close to a fluorescent light would work? Iím sure it would take longer.
Do you know if this resin is as thin as water or thicker?

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